![]() ![]() Neither lifted at all, even on close inspection. ![]() I also tried with a pigma micron and my el cheapo (camel brand) acrylic based drawing ink (and 659). So, if one likes dark moody pen and wash sketches, maybe it’ll work, but for light airy sketches, only the 0.1mm will do. I even used a hairdryer to “fix” the ink, no difference. The 0.1mm sketches remain cleanest after a wash on top. For reference, I did the same on the 0.1, 0.2, 0.3mm lines of the isographs, and the lifting is proportional to the amount of ink on the paper. So any watercolors I put on the pen lines, become somewhat darker. Not enough to lighten the ink lines, but enough to turn the wash to light gray. However, the major problem is that when I go over it with a waterbrush, a significant part of the ink lifts into the wash. I’m guessing it may have something to do with the surface tension, maybe should not have added the dispersant… I don’t know. However, there was much skipping, similar to my 0.3mm rotring isograph. The pen has a fairly wet medium nib, and it did write wet with the isograph ink. Did add a drop of synthetic dispersant to the ink to ease things along, no idea if it helped. I did use the pelikan linked above, which has been used in previous experiments with local el cheapo (camel brand) carbon based fountain pen ink (without much success… then or now). Thanks for the help and concern, everybody, but especially Pedlar (aka Mike)! As usual, good advice slipped off my back(, even though I don’t have especially oily feathers). Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, I know from past discussions that you are an innovator & your creativity isn’t just limited to paper – me neither but the fountain pen graveyard is full of artists pens who longed to use inks other than those designed for fountain pens. So for that reason you can’t use Rotring ink (although it might seem to work OK for a few days),Indian ink will kill it faster if you even get one line out of it ! & acrylic ink will take a few days longer but all these inks KILL fountain pens. One thing that most definitely upsets a fountain pen is disturbing those finely tuned tolerances is using inks not designed for them, most especially if some dried ink should gum up those tiny capillary workings it won’t take much at all to kill the pen. I trust you are getting the idea of just what a delicate balancing act it is & how sophisticated this everyday object is. Some brands of fountain pen inks just don’t get on with some makes of fountain pen – even though in truth there can be very little difference in the actual thickness of the ink! Sometimes a pen might “gush” & give out too much ink but this can be solved by using another ” dryer”make of ink. This feed is a precision made thing ! It is so precisely sized & so temperamental that manufactures make their own brand inks with very specific surface tensions to suit their particular feed. So you have the reservoir underneath the nib full of ink causing the “seal ” necessary for capillary action to take place whilst the breather hole/slit on the back of the nib allows air to return to the cartridge. The black bit of the feed that you see sticking out the end of the pen is called the reservoir & actually functions as its name would suggest. The ink is being drawn down by capillary action & the same volume of air is travelling back up to replace the ink that is being used. The ink travels down the tube that goes into the cartridge, then down a very fine groove which has fins radiating out from it, in these fins is a mixture of air & ink. Here is a picture of the bit inside a fountain pen body – “the feed”, the nib which sticks out of the pen is stuck into the blue tack. ![]()
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